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Cozzy and Micho sail their Leopard 40 from Marie Galante to Portsmouth, Dominica, arriving after a passage that started at 10 knots and accelerated to 17–22 knots as wind funneled down the island's mountainside, pushing the boat to 8–9 knots in 1.5-meter swells before going flat in the lee.3:29 The forecast had called for 11–13 knots; no reef was in.3:53 Portsmouth's anchorage is managed by PAYS (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Security), which sends a boat handler out to assist with mooring buoy pickup — a free service for all arriving yachts.9:25 Check-in requires flying the yellow quarantine flag, going ashore within 24 hours to clear immigration and customs, then hoisting the Dominica flag.6:44 The couple visits Fort Shirley inside Cabritas National Park, a British-era fortification built in the late 1700s during repeated Anglo-French contests for the island; entry costs 60 Eastern Caribbean dollars per person.17:15 New Year's Eve falls during their stay, and PAYS hosts a barbecue at Portsmouth with Creole rice, fish, pork, chicken, and unlimited rum punch for 120 EC dollars for two.24:57 Water taxi service between the anchorage and shore runs 10 EC dollars each way.27:30 They depart south toward Roseau, roughly 11 miles down the coast.31:28

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