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Matt and Amy aboard their 40-year-old Oyster Marine 37 Heritage, Florence, navigate the Norwegian coast north of Ålesund toward Tromsø, timing transits through tidal narrows that run up to seven knots.▶ 3:13 They depart at 0500 to catch the last of the ebb through a narrow fjord, then motor and sail 80 miles to Senja Island, running downwind on genoa alone — and later wing-on-wing with the staysail — because the fickle inter-island wind makes deploying the pole impractical in the calm conditions.▶ 7:20 The Norwegian charts prove accurate and the channels well-marked, with bridges high enough for Florence throughout.▶ 14:03 At Senja Island they find white-sand beaches backed by snow-capped mountains — the "Caribbean of the Arctic" comparison — and anchor in a near-empty archipelago.▶ 11:00 A planned hard hike to a nearly one-kilometre summit turns back short of the ridge after encountering steep snow fields, audible cracking, and rolling snow boulders; neither crampons nor ice axes were carried, a gap they note for future Arctic hiking in early June.▶ 24:36 Tromsø serves as the staging point for Svalbard, where multiple crews have converged to compare ice reports, weather windows, and polar bear protection before departing.▶ 29:15

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