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Anissia and Tom return to Anayapa in the Marquesas Islands five years after their first visit, finding significant changes in local hospitality and environmental conditions.0:29 The crew experiences heavy swell in the anchorage, which forces them to sleep in the saloon and requires the use of a stern anchor to prevent their dinghy from chafing against the dock.16:47 They encounter aggressive nonos (biting midges) on the beaches and face ongoing maintenance issues, including repairing a leaking inflatable kayak and cleaning mold from the dodger using a vinegar-water solution.20:07 While spearfishing, they catch a blue trevally but consult local fishermen to verify it is safe from ciguatera poisoning.14:37 The couple notes a decline in the welcoming nature of local residents compared to their previous trip, attributing the shift to increased tourism and the loss of a local figure known as "Robinson."21:22 Despite the challenges of boat life, including insect bites and equipment failure, they continue to manage their vessel's upkeep and prepare meals using stored provisions.17:36

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