Sailing SV Cordelia · video

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Steve and Annette aboard the Venus 46 Cordelia motor three hours from Placentia, Belize, to Long Coco Cay and then to Carrie Cay, navigating the second-largest reef system in the world with a crew member on the bow watching for coral in shallow, partially uncharted water.1:23 The depth sounder drops suddenly from 18 meters to 1.3 meters in places, and the anchor sits on top of coralline sand rather than burying — a known problem that forces an early departure when a blow approaches, since holding is unreliable.4:16 Snorkeling, swimming, and spotting one of Belize's roughly 50 breeding pairs of ospreys are highlights.6:30 A shore excursion turns bad when a swarm of large mosquitoes drives Annette back to the dinghy.16:05 A more serious problem: Steve develops acute paronychia — a bacterial nail-bed infection he likely contracted while cleaning the boat's bottom — which swells and requires lancing at a Placentia polyclinic.18:04 The doctor injects Mordecain, cuts away dead tissue, and prescribes antibiotics and ibuprofen; the clinic charges nothing.20:51 The crew also notes significant beach rubbish on islands covered by the cruising permit, with no apparent maintenance.11:40 A 1991 printed guidebook with hand-drawn charts remains the standard reference for the area.12:41

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