Sam Holmes Sailing · video

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Sam Holmes sails his 8.5-meter yacht Pickled Herring 30 nautical miles from Montenegro to Dubrovnik, Croatia, navigating a forecast 15-knot tailwind that fades quickly and leaves the boat rolling downwind at 3 knots — possibly aided by a favorable current.0:48 Before entering Croatian waters, Holmes calls Dubrovnik Radio on channel 9 to report his arrival as required, having been warned by other sailors that Croatia imposes fines for skipping the VTS radio check-in, anchoring without clearing customs, or detouring before reaching the harbormaster.3:30 The check-in itself — police, harbormaster, and customs — takes under 15 minutes and the officials are courteous, contradicting the strict reputation he had heard.4:56 He moors stern-to at a marina in Dubrovnik using a long improvised line to reach the dock.4:27 The following morning he pays 35 dollars to walk the old city walls.7:24 The Croatian VTS radio-reporting requirement is real and enforced, but the actual check-in process at Dubrovnik is fast and straightforward for a single-handed sailor arriving from Montenegro.

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