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Teak cockpit coaming refurbishment on Black Sheep requires removing and replacing wood plugs over screws without damaging the surrounding timber.Watch A Forstner bit slightly wider than the plug diameter removes plugs more cleanly than the traditional pilot-hole-and-screw method, which often chips the surrounding wood.0:36 When no solid wood remains to center the Forstner bit, drilling a guide block from scrap and holding it over the hole solves the centering problem.0:56 A Stanley bradawl clears glue from screw heads before removal; screws going into fiberglass grip hard, and when heads strip, drilling several fine holes around the screw shank creates enough clearance to extract the remains with pliers.1:07 Screws destined for fiberglass should be filed back to reduce thread bite, making future removal easier.2:26 Plug cutters and Forstner bits should be matched exactly — plugs ordered at 15 mm arrived at 15.5 mm, requiring every one to be sanded down individually.3:07 Plugs are set in thickened epoxy with grain aligned to surrounding teak, then knocked flush with a chisel; approaching from the uphill side of the grain prevents plugs from breaking below the surface.3:26 Final sanding runs 80, 120, 180, then 240 grit before varnishing.5:32 Matching plug-cutter and Forstner bit diameters eliminates the most time-consuming step in the process.

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