Sailing La Vagabonde · video

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Riley and Elayna sail La Vagabonde on a four-day motoring passage from Palau to Helen Reef, a remote atoll in Palau's EEZ roughly 400 nautical miles offshore. La Vagabonde carries no sails at the time of departure, so Riley selects a near-windless weather window and holds speed to four or five knots to stretch fuel range, avoiding the need to carry jerry cans.2:00 Logs floating from Melanesian timber ships and deforestation runoff are a genuine hazard at night, prompting reduced speed after dark.15:45 Navigation into the reef pass uses Navionics alongside Google Earth, with a squall arriving just as they clear the channel.23:43 At Helen Reef, a small team of rangers — including one named Brian — has been stationed for up to a year and a half at a time with no internet access, defending the reef against industrial tuna fleets and poachers whose nets and lines operate right up to the reserve boundary.29:41 Permits are required to anchor, dive, and spearfish, though the crew doubts the fees reach the rangers directly.28:59 Visibility in the pass runs to 35 meters.26:40 The rangers get internet access from La Vagabonde's Starlink, which they describe as a rare blessing.29:51 Brian plants trees on the island for the crew's two children, Lenny and Darwin.32:41

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