Sailing Florence · video

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Amy and Matt depart the Isles of Scilly aboard their 37-ft Oyster Marine 37 Heritage, Florence, timing a midday departure to catch a favorable tide shift for a broad-reach overnight passage north up the Irish Sea toward Dublin. A squall pushes winds to 25 knots early in the passage; they reef the main and swap the genoa for the staysail to settle the boat. They arrive at Dun Laoghaire Marina, take the DART into central Dublin for €5.20 return, and visit Trinity College, Grafton Street, and a local pub for Guinness, beef stew, and bacon and cabbage. The next leg targets Glenarm, Northern Ireland, specifically to time the tides past the Mull of Kintyre — a critical tidal gate where Florence previously logged 13 knots over the ground southbound. Glenarm delivers near-constant rain but a 13th-century village and Glenarm Forest Park's 800 acres of river walks. A dawn departure catches the tide through the Mull of Kintyre at 8 knots, then the spinnaker goes up in the light air of the Sound of Jura. Florence anchors at Carusay Bay, Scotland, where local diver Dougie recognizes the boat and delivers fresh scallops; Amy shucks and serves them raw and pan-fried in butter and garlic. The crew then transits the Sound of Luing on 3 knots of neap tide, making 9 knots over the ground in near-calm winds, en route to Oban and the Caledonian Canal.

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